迪拜有很多餐馆,你每天都可以在一家新餐馆吃饭,你要花将近50年的时间才能把它们都吃完。这里有来自世界各地的美食可供选择,在这个城市里有人在家吃饭真是个奇迹。然而,人们却在为此掏腰包。不过,这不是他们自己的家:食客们在“晚餐俱乐部”吃一个完全陌生的人做的饭,并且要支付80美元一人以上的费用。
Dubai has plenty of restaurants, yet many individuals still choose to dine at home — not their own home, but at “supper clubs.” Supper clubs are not restaurants, so they don’t need food licenses, which makes them easy to set up, and also means they aren’t regulated by traditional hygiene (卫生) and safety bodies. They are set-menu dinners hosted by amateur or professional chefs. Diners often won’t know the menu or location of the dinner until after they book. People are encouraged to come alone, or with just one friend, providing a chance to network (建立关系网), and attendees can bring their own drinks. The phenomenon isn’t new, or exists only in Dubai, but it’s reached new heights in the city in the past year with dozens of experiences appearing in the underground dining scene.
迪拜有很多餐厅,但许多人仍然选择在家吃饭——不是在自己家,而是在“晚餐俱乐部”。晚餐俱乐部不是餐馆,所以它们不需要食品许可证,这使得它们很容易成立,也意味着它们不受传统卫生和安全机构的监管。它们是由业余或专业厨师主持的固定菜单晚餐。用餐者通常在预订之后才知道菜单或地点。人们被鼓励单独来,或者只和一个朋友一起来,这提供了一个交流的机会,用餐者可以自带饮料。这种现象并不新鲜,也不是只存在于迪拜,但在过去的一年里,随着许多地下餐厅的出现,这种现象在迪拜达到了新的高度。
Palestinian chef Ahmad Halawa started his supper club in 2019, hosting dinners on weekends and having a full-time job in marketing.
巴勒斯坦厨师艾哈迈德·哈拉瓦(Ahmad Halawa)于2019年创办了他的晚餐俱乐部,在周末举办晚宴,他还有一份全职的营销工作。
At first, it was just friends and family coming along. But once word started to spread about Halawa’s delicious dishes, “I had strangers in my house, and people were booking their seats to come and join the experience,” he says. People mostly find Halawa through word of mouth or on Instagram, and his events usually book out within two days. He quit his job in 2021, and now he hosts up to 30 guests twice a week in his backyard, with an elegant banquet (宴会) table, flower arrangements and fairy lights. These strangers pay over $100 per person to enjoy his creative Levantine menus, including his famous knafeh, a traditional Arabic dessert made with fine pasty and sweet soft cheese.
起初,只有朋友和家人来。但是,当哈拉瓦的美味菜肴开始传开后,“我的房子里就有了陌生人,人们都预订了座位来参加体验,”他说。人们大多通过口口相传或在Instagram上找到哈拉瓦,他的晚宴通常在两天内就被预订一空。他于2021年辞职,现在他每周两次在后院招待多达30位客人,有一张优雅的宴会桌、插花和仙女灯。这些陌生人每人支付超过100美元来享受他的创意黎凡特菜单,包括他著名的库纳法,这是一种传统的阿拉伯甜点,由精致的馅饼和甜软奶酪制成。
While great food is key to any dinner party, Halawa suspects that the social aspect of the supper clubs is broadening their appeal in Dubai, where around 90% of the population are foreigners.
虽然美味的食物是任何晚宴的关键,但哈拉瓦认为,晚餐俱乐部的社交方面正在扩大它们在迪拜的吸引力,在迪拜,大约90%的人口是外国人。
“Most people are away from home, away from their families. So I wanted to bring people under one roof, at one table, get them to speak without boundaries, and just share a nice meal and conversation,” he says, adding that his dinners are served family style at a communal (共用的) table rather than plated per-person like at a restaurant. “People miss that authenticity,” says Halawa. “Supper clubs provide a more intimate, personal experience for the attendee.”
“大多数人都远离家乡,离开了家人。所以我想把人们聚集在一个屋檐下,坐在一张桌子上,让他们没有界限地说话,分享一顿美味的晚餐和谈话,”他说,他的晚餐是在公共餐桌上提供的,而不是像在餐馆那样每人一盘。“人们怀念那种真实,”哈拉瓦说。“晚餐俱乐部为参加者提供了更亲密、更个人的体验。”
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